A Legacy of Innovation and Style

The Fifty Fathoms collection, which debuted in 1953 as the first professional dive watch, laid the foundation for the Bathyscaphe line introduced in 1956. Originally designed to be a versatile daily wearer with diving capabilities, the Bathyscaphe has evolved to merge contemporary aesthetics with advanced technology. These latest additions to the Bathyscaphe collection continue this proud tradition, featuring a striking blend of vibrant colors and the mastery of ceramic craftsmanship.

A key innovation in the Fifty Fathoms line is the unidirectional rotating bezel, designed for safe time measurement underwater. This feature was inspired by a near-fatal dive experienced by Blancpain co-president Jean-Jacques Fiechter in 1952. The bezel on the new Bathyscaphe models, including the moon phase calendar, incorporates a ceramic insert with a tone that matches the colour of the dial, along with Gray Liquidmetal® for added contrast. This design ensures both aesthetic appeal and strong resistance to scratches, while retaining the distinctive “click” sound of the bezel.

The Full Ceramic Experience

Blancpain’s innovative use of ceramic technology is a cornerstone of the new Bathyscaphe line. Ceramic is an ideal material for luxury watches due to its durability, scratch resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. The ceramic used in this collection is nearly five times harder than stainless steel and almost four times harder than grade 5 titanium, while being 25% lighter. The complex manufacturing process involves firing the material at over 1400°C, followed by diamond machining and hand-finishing by Blancpain’s in-house experts.

The high-tech ceramic bracelet is a first for Blancpain, featuring a patented mounting system with cam-shaped pins that ensure remarkable resistance and comfort. Each link is meticulously measured and hand-finished to guarantee perfect alignment and ergonomics. The neutral black colour of the bracelet complements the design of the new Complete Calendar and the other Bathyscaphe models. There are also a variety of other strap options available, including sail cloth and NATO.

Each model in the new collection boasts a 43.6mm case, with the chronograph measuring 15.25mm thick, the calendar at 14.1mm, and the automatic diver at 13.83mm. As previously mentioned, the Complete Calendar features a sunburst blue dial, while the dial of the Flyback Chronograph pops in sunburst green with graduated colour. The Complete Calendar model is particularly noteworthy for its intricate design and functionality. While it may appear busier than a typical diving watch, it retains the unidirectional rotating bezel that is a hallmark of the Bathyscaphe line. Powered by the 6654.P4 movement, this watch offers a comprehensive suite of features including hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week, month, a central date indicator, and a moonphase.

For those seeking something more akin to a traditional dive watch with the added appeal of a full ceramic case and bracelet, the Automatic model, with its 120-hour power reserve and more subdued sunburst black dial, is a robust choice. All three versions offer an impressive 300 meters of water resistance, making these timepieces as functional as they are stylish.

Available From Watches Of Switzerland

Here at Watches of Switzerland we are thrilled to witness the evolution of ceramic in watchmaking. Blancpain’s new Bathyscaphe Fifty- Fathoms models not only showcase the brand’s dedication to innovation but also highlight the increasing prevalence of ceramic in high-end timepieces. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, these models promise to deliver exceptional performance and enduring elegance. Explore the new collection and experience the future of luxury diving watches with Blancpain. Contact us or shop online at Watches of Switzerland.

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The Blancpain Heritage Department

To put Blancpain’s heritage department into context, it’s helpful to understand that the brand’s roots are divided into two branches. The oldest dates back to the company’s founding in 1735, when Jehan-Jacques Blancpain officially registered as a watchmaker in Villeret. The second branch dates from 1859 in Le Brassus. This is where Louis-Elysée Piguet set up his workshop specialised in complicated movements. Over a century later, his heir, Jacques Piguet, would go on to buy Blancpain, initially turning it into the manufacturer for the Frédéric Piguet brand, before setting it up as separate subsidiary. Blancpain and Frédéric Piguet would later merge in 2010, but that’s a story for another day.

Well before all that though, in 1891, Louis-Elysée Piguet bought an old mill, called “Le Moulin”, located in an area known by the locals as “Le Rocher” (the rock) on the hillside just above the centre of the village of Le Brassus in the Vallée de Joux. Today, this state-of-the-art workshop is known as “The Farm”. Within these walls, Blancpain’s master watchmakers devote themselves to the grand complications for the Villeret collection, such as minute-repeaters, split-seconds chronographs, carrousels, tourbillons and ultra-complex calendars like the Equation du Temps Marchante and the Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel. The Farm also houses Blancpain’s Le Brassus decorating and engraving workshops, as well as those that deal with the decoration of components for prestigious movements.

Given the unique expertise required, it perhaps comes as no surprise then that Blancpain’s President & CEO Marc A. Hayek chose this picturesque locale as the perfect setting for his visionary heritage department, created in 2014. His goal was to preserve Blancpain’s longstanding patrimony, in particular reviving the impressive legacy of the Fifty Fathoms. A passionate diver – much like Fifty Fathoms’ creator Jean-Jacques Fichter – Hayek was immediately seduced by the charm and the incredible stories of the Fifty Fathoms, not to mention its impressive performance as a tool watch over consecutive decades. He instinctively knew that servicing the brand’s vintage pieces would be key to bringing the modern day collections to life.

Today, the vintage department is staffed by a hand-picked team of Blancpain watchmakers who not only have a passion for the expert restoration of vintage pieces but also a deep understanding and appreciation of the unique challenges in determining what should be restored, what should be replaced and what should be left as is, particularly with regards to aesthetic matters. Questions which generally do not arise in the more routine servicing of modern pieces. To fit with Hayek’s vision of returning the vintage watches that pass through these doors to as close to original as possible, these watchmakers also need to master the increasingly rare skills of component fabrication by hand.

It is worth noting here that despite the Fifty Fathoms being a key focus for Blancpain in recent times, all four core collections from Blancpain today (Fifty Fathoms, Villeret, Ladybird and Air Command) have a strong heritage and have either been revamped or kept in the collection since their inception. As such, all Blancpain models created before the 1980’s come to the heritage department for expert servicing, and where required, restoration.

The Restoration Process

For any new arrival at Le Brassus, the timepieces must undergo a multi-dimensional analysis to ensure the watch is genuine. This technical diagnostic analysis results in a report replete with photographs of the case, dial (including hands), case back and movement. The next step brings the watchmaker and the owner into close contact. How far should the restoration go? Is the case scratched? (For example, a diving watch subject to both military and professional diving use for nearly a half century will probably exhibit scratching.) To what degree should the scratches be addressed? Blancpain’s philosophy is to recommend minimum intervention. Polishing to remove all scratches would likely go too far and dull or even remove engravings on the case back and, perhaps worse, alter slightly the shape of the case.

Virtually, all owners of vintage pieces agree with this light-touch approach. The same thinking applies to the dial. Gentle cleaning is usually advised if markings have slightly deteriorated because of age. Repainting would not only rob the watch of the patina of age, but it would destroy its legitimacy as a vintage piece. These issues and the choices are always presented to the owner before they make their decision. Then, a full service must cover the movement, case, dial, glass, and hands. For a vintage timepiece, in many instances, a movement restoration calls on the heritage watchmakers to employ their rare skills of component-making.

As you might imagine, the restoration process is complemented and indeed heavily influenced by historical research, as it helps Blancpain’s expert watchmakers and artisans stay faithful to the watches they are working on. Research provides insights into the era, design trends, and cultural context when each model was created; this in turn allows the heritage restoration department to learn about the intended purpose, audience, and significance of a given watch. Likewise, when it comes to authenticity and originality, research helps verify original components and ensures accurate restoration, in order to preserve the value and historical integrity of watches. This extends to understanding the materials and techniques used at the time, to ensure any work done remains as true to the original as possible.

Blancpain’s policy of only intervening when it is deemed necessary, helps ensure that restored pieces maintain their authenticity and historical significance. As does the application of the expert know how of those doing the restoration work, who use traditional techniques wherever possible. That’s why all interventions are always made by human beings, not computer-driven machines. The Blancpain ethos is that knowledge and practice are keys to guaranteeing the history and the DNA of these timepieces. Finally, the fully restored timepiece is reunited with its owner.

We trust you have enjoyed this special feature on the Blancpain’s Heritage Department and found it both insightful and informative. Should you be in the possession of a vintage Blancpain timepiece in need of restoration work or should you like to learn more, please visit your nearest Watches of Switzerland Boutique today and our expert staff will be more than pleased to assist you.

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Back To Where It All Began

It’s difficult to imagine today, but when the Summer Olympic Games were held in 1932, the transport links in California were remote and unreliable. At the same time, the world was collectively reeling from the dramatic effects of the Great Depression. As a result, athlete participation was the lowest since 1904. Yet, as we have all witnessed time and again, the Olympics has the unique ability to bring an entire country to its feet and showcase, even if just for a fleeting instant, what the human spirit is truly capable of. That is why, amidst this sea of uncertainty, the decision was taken for the first time to choose a single watch company to serve as the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games. Improving and elevating the quality and reliability of the results was seen as being of critical importance to the overall Olympic experience.

Even at this time, OMEGA’s name was already synonymous with precision. It had set numerous industry records and had also built a strong reputation in the world of sports timekeeping. With such compelling experience, the company was the most obvious and trusted choice to become Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games in 1932. It’s no exaggeration to say that this single decision would become a defining moment in the history of sports measurement, setting the course for both an incredible future and an enduring partnership. One which – as you will shortly discover – has seen OMEGA constantly push itself to innovate new solutions in order to deliver ever greater levels of precision.

The beginning though – as beginnings often are – was relatively humble. For the 1932 Games, one OMEGA watchmaker travelled all the way from Bienne to Los Angeles armed with thirty stopwatches for the judges to operate. Each piece had been certified as a chronometer by the Observatory at Neuchâtel and was accurate to the nearest 1/10th of a second. Split-second functionality also meant that intermediate times could be recorded. The brand’s success at the event attracted great praise from many different quarters and established OMEGA’s name in Olympic Games history. Four years later, OMEGA watchmaker Paul-Louis Guignard boarded a train in Basel and headed to Berlin carrying a precious cargo of 185 stopwatches in his suitcase, more than six times the number used at the 1932 Olympics.

The Magic Eye

With the advent of World War II, the next Olympic Games would not take place for another twelve years. First up was the Winter Olympics in St Moritz, Switzerland. It was here that OMEGA debuted its most impressive sport timekeeping innovation yet: the Photoelectric Cell. Often referred to as one of OMEGA’s most significant innovations in the world of timekeeping, this technology replaced the traditional finish line tape with a highly-reactive beam of light. That meant that as soon as the first athlete crossed the finish line, their race time was electronically stopped and could be measured to the nearest 1/1000th of a second. Compared to the reactions of the human eye or the outdated Muybridge Wire, this was a significant improvement.

OMEGA’s Photoelectric Cell was the world’s first independent, portable and water-resistant version of the technology and could be adjusted to resist both high and low outdoor temperatures. Remarkably though, even with their ultra-modern equipment, the five-man OMEGA team was still reliant on a more mechanical piece of technology in St. Moritz. Instead of having an office, they worked from a converted Chevrolet which had been equipped with special shock absorbers in order to protect the sensitive gadgets inside.

By the Summer Olympics held in London six months later, even greater advances had been made in the Photoelectric Cell. Now nicknamed the “Magic Eye”, the technology was used in conjunction with the world’s first slit photofinish camera. Developed by a British firm called “Race Finish Recording Company”, the Racend Timer recorded an image that could prove the exact finishing order of a close race. In London, the photofinish camera was only used to determine final rankings, not official results, but the breakthrough was still an important one, and by Helsinki in 1952, the camera had been renamed the OMEGA Racend Timer. These Games also marked the first time that OMEGA’s chronograph timers were linked to the starting pistol for a more accurate start.

Controversy In The Pool

Given Australia’s rich history in competitive swimming, it should come as no surprise that OMEGA really challenged itself to improve timekeeping in the pool at the 1956 Summer Games, held in Melbourne. Considering its watery environment, swimming had always posed a unique set of challenges for timekeepers. Finishes were often too close to call and precision could not be guaranteed. But in 1956, OMEGA was able to introduce a revolutionary piece of equipment that would forever change the future of timekeeping in the pool. The Swim Eight-O-Matic was the world’s first semi-automatic swimming timer. It allowed timekeepers to distinguish between any swimmers who finished at virtually the same time. This was particularly prescient as no less than an astonishing eight World Records were set in the pool in Melbourne.

One of those was set in the women’s 100m backstroke final where two competitors each clocked the winning time. Judith Grinham of Great Britain and Carin Cone of the USA, hit the wall in a dead-heat time of 1 minute and 12.9 seconds. It was a World Record, but according to the rules, only one of the swimmers could claim the gold medal. OMEGA’s Swim Eight-O-Matic had fulfilled its role in providing an accurate finishing time for the two racers, but the final decision was down to the judges themselves. It took more than a quarter of an hour of deliberation and debate, with many of the judges divided on the outcome. In the end, a majority decision gave Grinham the victory while Cone took silver. She found herself in the unusual position of claiming a World Record but not the overall victory.

Controversy would continue to follow the swimming events into the 1960 Games in Rome. In fact, the outcome of the men’s 100m freestyle final forced OMEGA to completely rethink its timekeeping in the pool. Lance Larson and John Devitt finished at seemingly the same time, but the judges were steadfastly split on who had won. Despite strong timing evidence in Larson’s favour, the gold was unconvincingly given to Devitt which led to years of protests and appeals – all without change. There was a silver lining though, of sorts. This troubling incident was the ultimate catalyst for the development of OMEGA’s swimming “touch pads” that arrived in 1968. More on those in a moment.

The Omegascope

First though, we would be remiss not to mention the 1964 Winter Olympics in Innsbruck. Despite there being virtually no snow due to an incredibly mild winter in Austria that year, the introduction of computer technology transformed the Winter Olympic Games and gave the competition a dynamic and modern edge. In the end, 40,000 cubic metres of snow was transported to the alpine skiing course, which is just as well as Innsbruck is often described as the first televised Olympic Games. Well over 200 hours of airtime was devoted to the events and dozens of television stations were positioned onsite.

Thanks to the new Omegascope, the viewing experience went one step further than ever before. This new piece of equipment introduced the concept of “real time” sports reporting by superimposing the times of athletes on the bottom of the screen. It revolutionised timekeeping yet again but also left no margin for error. OMEGA’s precision was now openly on display for millions to see, meaning that the brand had to get every measurement exactly right. Never had spectators outside a venue been so quickly and well-informed about events taking place in sport.

Touchpads Touch Down In Mexico City

The next big evolution for OMEGA came at the Mexico City Summer Olympic Games in 1968. This was the first Olympic Games in which the brand’s electronic timekeeping was officially used in all sports. On top of this, several new pieces of OMEGA equipment were introduced. Among them was the OMEGA Photosprint, used to film all runners as they crossed the finish line in athletics. The camera featured a tiny vertical opening and included a film strip with the time written on it. With this innovation, time became linked with photography, and modern sports timekeeping was born. Since the Photosprint could deliver developed pictures within 30 seconds, those responsible for the athletics events decided to take the big step of using automated timekeeping only.

Perhaps most notably, the Mexico Games saw the arrival of OMEGA’s Swimming Touchpads, considered to be one of the most pivotal moments in timekeeping history. The bright yellow pads were 90 cm high by 240 cm wide and two-thirds of their surface was immersed in the water. They reacted to the slightest of touches, so that when an athlete reached the finish, they were able to stop time with their own hands. Now, there was no disputing the precision of the result.

The changes didn’t stop there. An OMEGA loudspeaker was also linked to the starting pistol and placed behind each starting block so that all swimmers would hear the signal at the same moment. Finally, the Swim-O-Matic, successor to the Swim Eight-O-Matic, was introduced and was accurate to the nearest 1/1000th of a second. OMEGA had indeed conquered the myriad challenges of accurate timekeeping in water.

No More False Starts

Throughout the ensuing years, OMEGA continued to innovate and refine its timekeeping advances at the intervening Olympic Games. The various achievements are too numerous to mention here, so instead we will skip ahead to the 1984 Summer Olympic Games in Los Angeles. It was here that the world witnessed what has been called OMEGA’s greatest victory in timekeeping; the introduction of the first false start detection system. The equipment was extremely sensitive. In fact, as soon as an athlete launched forward, their reaction time was triggered as their leg exerted 29kg (27kg for women) of pressure against the starting block. This was then displayed to timekeepers on a decisive graph. The runner was not allowed to move until 0.100 seconds after the start signal. If they measured even the slightest false start, it would be caught. OMEGA also installed loudspeakers behind each starting block so that competitors would hear the start signal at the exact same time. This ensured that the athletes’ performances could be compared evenly.

A similar false start system was included in swimming and its precision was able to rightly disqualify three relay teams in five finals. It’s worth noting that the technology had been quite controversial when it first appeared in the swimming events at the 1982 Commonwealth Games. Many disqualifications had occurred and the timekeeping team became the victims of various threats and assaults. Thankfully, by Los Angeles 1984, the innovation had been accepted and soon became an established part of Olympic Games events.

A Quantum Of Timing

Fast forward another few decades and we are back in London for the 2012 Summer Olympic Games. Front and centre is OMEGA, ready to debut its new Quantum Timer. With an enhanced resolution of one millionth of a second, this was the beginning of a new generation of the brand’s timekeeping products. The resolution was 100 times greater than previous devices and, with a maximum variation of only one second out of every million seconds, it was five times more accurate. The precision of the device was achieved through the use of a Micro Crystal component embedded in the timer and it included 16 independent clocks, meaning that 16 separate running times could be physically implemented in the hardware and the information for each could be communicated to scoreboards or shown on television screens. It would be a real challenge to find a sport that this device could not time.

Refusing to rest on its laurels, OMEGA brought an abundance of new technology to the Rio Summer Games just four years later. Perhaps gaining the most attention was the OMEGA Scan’O’Vision MYRIA. It was able to record up to 10,000 digital images per second as each athlete crossed the finish line, enabling judges to officially determine the champion of each race. Improved light sensitivity also meant that images were of higher quality than with previous versions. The next generation of Photocell technology was also introduced in Rio. Instead of two photocells, there were now four, all integrated into one unit. With four photocells in operation, more body patterns could be detected as athletes crossed the line which meant that a truly precise finishing time could be measured.

At the other end of the track, the starting blocks were enhanced with built-in sensors that measured an athlete’s force against the footrest 4,000 times per second. This “False Start Detection System” instantly sent the measurements to an on-site computer so that the starter could visually analyse the reaction in the case of a false start.

Unprecedented Performance Measurement

The vision for PyeongChang 2018 was “new horizons” and OMEGA certainly followed the theme with its own exciting technologies. High up in the mountains of South Korea, the era of “live competition data” began, enabling the Official Timekeeper to measure every part of an athlete’s performance. This modern approach changed the viewing experience and was the perfect fit for this youthful edition of the Olympic Winter Games, which included dynamic new events such as Big Air snowboarding. Of course, OMEGA’s famous precision was also never far from the action, with some incredibly close finishes recorded – especially in speed skating.

Likewise, Tokyo 2020 was another step forward for OMEGA in the development of its motion sensor and positioning systems. Throughout the two weeks, a comprehensive range of real-time data was captured, once again providing precise insight into the sporting events. Whether it was the live speeds of swimmers, the live positions of runners, or even the speed of a volleyball, the Official Timekeeper was able to track all the information and therefore tell the entire story of each event. Seven sports in Tokyo featured these revolutionary technologies, helping to continue the exciting new era that began at PyeongChang 2018.

Looking Ahead To Paris 2024

We hope by now it’s clear that OMEGA’s ongoing contributions to Olympic timekeeping involve continuous refinement and innovation. Each technological advancement aims to improve the accuracy, reliability, and fairness of timekeeping, ensuring that the best athletes are recognized for their true performance. OMEGA’s role in the Olympics has solidified its reputation as a leader in precision timekeeping and a crucial partner in the world of sports. Now, for the 31st time since 1932, OMEGA is performing its role as Official Timekeeper in all 329 Olympic events across 32 sports – followed by the Paralympic Games, beginning on August 28th.

Taking place in some of the city’s most iconic locations, Paris 2024 will signal the next leap forward in the field of modern timekeeping. Raising the standards of precision and performance, OMEGA will not only measure the results that separate gold, silver, and bronze, but will do so with the next generation of photofinish camera, and a wave of in-depth data collection that will show exactly how each event is won or lost.

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What is guilloché’ engraving?

For those not familiar with the term ‘guilloché’, it’s worth spending a few moments exploring what it actually entails. In the simplest terms, guilloché is an intricate decorative technique used primarily in watchmaking (although it can be found in other fine crafts also), where a repetitive, engraved pattern is created on a metal surface. In essence, a series of very fine, precise lines form a pattern, such as tiny waves, spirals, or grids, that cover a surface, giving it a textured and reflective quality. It sounds simple enough but, it is a time-consuming and highly demanding process that takes years to master.

To create those very fine, precise lines a skilled artisan uses a special machine called a rose engine. This machine has various settings and templates (called rosettes) that guide a cutting tool over the metal, carving out the design. The patterns are not just for decoration; they also have practical benefits, like reducing glare on a watch dial, making it easier to read. It’s a slow process though and one which requires immense patience. Each pass of the cutting tool removes only a tiny amount of material, meaning that creating a single pattern can take several hours or even days. Likewise, consistency in the pattern is crucial. Any deviation or error can ruin the symmetry and overall appearance of the design, and in the case of Breguet’s exacting standards, could even necessitate discarding the work in progress and beginning again. A high level of attention to detail is a non-negotiable requirement for mastery of this craft, as well as a healthy dose of determination.

In sum, think of guilloche engraving as a way to add both beauty and function to an object, turning a plain surface into something visually stunning and unique. It turns a piece of metal, such as a dial blank, into a canvas and demands creative flair, an expert eye, and a steady, patient hand to painstakingly engrave fine, precise lines to create a piece of art that also serves a practical purpose.

The Rose Engine Lathe

An ingenious invention, the rose engine consists of a spindle that holds the workpiece and a series of interchangeable rosette cams, each with a different pattern. The spindle is mounted on a rocking frame, allowing it to move back and forth in response to the contours of the cam. By changing the cam, the artisan can switch between different patterns, such as waves, spirals, or floral motifs. The cutting tool is mounted on a carriage that moves horizontally. This carriage can be adjusted to control the depth and position of the cut. As the spindle rotates and rocks back and forth, the cutting tool is guided over the surface of the workpiece, engraving the pattern dictated by the cam.

The process is highly manual, requiring the artisan to constantly adjust and control the cutting tool and the movement of the spindle. The speed of rotation, the pressure applied, and the synchronization between the rocking motion and the cutting tool’s advancement all need to be meticulously controlled. Operating a rose engine for guilloché is a blend of art and science, requiring technical skill, artistic vision, and years of dedicated practice. The intricate patterns produced by this technique are a testament to the artisan’s mastery and the timeless beauty of hand-crafted horology.

The Abraham Louis Breguet Influence

Breguet’s founder and namesake Abraham Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) didn’t invent the rose engine lathe – this achievement is commonly attributed to the Swiss-born mechanic and watchmaker, Jacob Auch, around the 1780s – however, he did play a key role in popularising its use in watchmaking. In fact, Breguet was among the first watchmakers to adopt the use of the rose lathe for creating guilloché patterns on watch dials, producing beautiful patterns that added depth, texture, and elegance to his watch dials. These patterns not only made the dials more attractive but also helped to diffuse light, reducing glare and improving legibility.

As with every aspect of his craft, Breguet set high standards for the use of guilloché in watchmaking. His use of the rose lathe was marked by exceptional precision and symmetry, with the techniques he developed influencing not only his contemporaries but also future generations of watchmakers. Many of the designs he developed are still used by Breguet today, as well as by other luxury watch brands that seek to emulate his level of craftsmanship.

Historical examples include the Breguet No. 5, which he created in 1794. It features a guilloché dial that showcases Breguet’s mastery of the rose lathe technique. The intricate patterns add both beauty and functionality to the timepiece. Likewise, one of A-L Breguet’s most famous creations, the Marie-Antoinette watch, features a richly decorated dial with guilloché patterns. This watch is a testament to Breguet’s skill and artistic vision.

Montres Breguet and the Art of Guilloché

In contemporary Breguet watches, guilloché remains a prominent feature, symbolizing the brand’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship and elegance. The patterns are often applied to dials, rotors, and casebacks, enhancing both the visual appeal and the heritage value of the timepieces. Breguet has also pioneered techniques to create multi-layered guilloché patterns, adding depth and complexity to the designs. This involves layering different patterns on top of each other to produce a three-dimensional effect. This technique requires a high level of precision and coordination, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation.

Drawing heavily on the influence and handiwork of its namesake, Breguet employs a variety of guilloché patterns in its modern-day creations, each serving different aesthetic and functional purposes. Some of the more recognisable traditional patterns include:

• Clous de Paris (sometimes referred to as hobnail) – characterized by small, pyramid-shaped studs arranged in a grid pattern, it is used to add texture and depth, typically to a watch dial but also sometimes to the watch case itself.

• Sunburst or Radiating Lines – usually found on sub-dials or as a background to other dial elements, this technique calls for lines emanating from a central point, giving a sense of motion and vibrancy. A-L Breguet often used this style of guilloché to distinguish subdials from the main dial, a technique Montres Breguet continues to adopt to great effect today.

• Waves or Wavy Lines – In 1815, A-L Breguet obtained an official appointment as chronometer-maker to the French Navy, forever cementing the brand’s connection to the seas. This technique produces fluid, undulating patterns that mimic the appearance of waves and is prominently found on timepieces in Breguet’s contemporary Marine collection.

• Basket Weave – As the name suggests, this decorative technique is comprised of intersecting lines that create a woven appearance. It is extremely complex to produce and truly showcases the skill of the artisan at work.

Breguet has also been known to explore contemporary aesthetics, incorporating modern art and design elements into its guilloche engraving. Innovative designs include abstract patterns, modern geometric shapes, and even inspirations from nature and architecture.

No matter what pattern is used, Breguet has a rigorous quality control process to ensure that every guilloché design meets the brand’s exacting standards. The use of microscopes and other precision instruments during the engraving process ensures that even the smallest details are perfectly executed and each complete piece is meticulously inspected for uniformity, depth, and overall aesthetic quality.

Likewise, Breguet regularly invests in high-precision tools and machinery as well as in training new generations of artisans, ensuring that the knowledge and skills required for guilloché are passed down and preserved. This includes both traditional techniques and modern innovations. These training programs are essential for maintaining the high standards of craftsmanship that Breguet is known for.

Breguet’s modern innovations in guilloche engraving reflect a harmonious blend of tradition and technology. By integrating advanced materials, tools, and techniques, Breguet continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in guilloché, while preserving the timeless beauty and craftsmanship that define the brand.

Discover Breguet Guilloché at Watches Of Switzerland Today

Watches of Switzerland is privileged to partner with Montres Breguet in Australia, offering a deep selection of models at our Sydney, Melbourne, and Perth boutiques. Book a private viewing with our knowledgeable consultants to truly appreciate the intricate beauty of these designs. With guilloché decorations showcased in all Montres Breguet collections, you’ll discover the ideal timepiece for yourself or a cherished companion.

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The New Polaris Date: A Modern Classic

The latest addition to the Polaris collection is the new Polaris Date, a timepiece that epitomizes the essence of sporty sophistication for everyday adventures. This remarkable watch merges the practical functions and rugged durability of a sports watch with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s hallmark elegance and timeless design.

One of the most striking features of the new Polaris Date is its dial. Enhanced by skeletonized hands, bold Arabic numerals, and elongated trapezoid indexes, all coated in SuperLuminova for optimal legibility in low-light conditions, the dial captivates with its ocean-grey hue. Achieved through 35 layers of lacquer, it showcases a double gradation and three levels of finishing: an opaline flange, a grained index disk, and a sun-rayed center. Its in-house calibre 899 movement provides a 70-hour power reserve, allowing the wearer to enjoy their timepiece without interruption. The watch also features an easily interchangeable black rubber strap, making it perfect for everyday adventures.

The Polaris Collection

When Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the historic Polaris name in 2018, it redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch. The collection pays homage to the Maison’s iconic 1960s diving watches, featuring high-performing calibres and a distinct design that combines practicality and style. The Polaris collection is characterized by its off-centred crowns, taut lines, glass-box crystals, narrow bezels, and a dynamic mix of brushed and polished surfaces. These elements, along with the skeletonised hands, assertive Arabic numerals, and elongated trapezoid indexes coated in SuperLuminova, create a visually striking and highly legible dial.

In 1968, a new era was born with the launch of the Memovox Polaris, a watch housed in an unconventional large case, whose alarm function elevated the piece as an iconic diving watch.The intricate dial construction is enhanced by gradient colours and various decorative finishes such as opaline, graining, sunray-brushing, and snailing. These finishes are meticulously applied beneath a rich lacquer coating, adding depth and dynamism to the dials. The lacquering process involves multiple layers of colour and translucent lacquer, polished to a perfect finish.

Shop Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches of Switzerland

Immerse yourself in the sporty elegance of the Polaris Date, a timepiece that epitomizes unparalleled craftsmanship and timeless style. For the discerning collector, this watch is more than just an accessory—it’s a statement. Shop online or visit our boutiques to experience the elegance and masterful craftsmanship of Jaeger-LeCoultre firsthand.

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Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication

The Berkley Grand Complication may not be for sale – it was after all specially commissioned by American collector William R. Berkley – but that doesn’t mean we can’t still marvel at its fantastical complexity. Encapsulating an unprecedented 63 complications and 2,877 components, it surpasses Vacheron Constantin’s previous record-holder – the Reference 57260 – to take the mantle of world’s most complicated watch.

One of the standout features of the Berkley Grand Complication is the inclusion of the world’s first Chinese perpetual calendar. This calendar accounts for the complexities and irregularities of the Chinese lunar and solar cycles, displaying the date of the Chinese New Year and other key dates up to the year 2200. It also includes a traditional Gregorian perpetual calendar, a sky chart, a triple-axis tourbillon, and a grande sonnerie with a Westminster carillon chiming the tune sounded by the bells of Big Ben.

The Berkley Grand Complication is presented in a polished 18k white gold case, measuring an impressive 98mm in diameter and 50.55mm thick, and weighs nearly one kilogram. Its dual-face design showcases various astronomical indications on both sides, with intricate details such as the phases of the moon and a sky chart of the constellations visible from Shanghai​. Bringing the project to fruition required eleven years of development by a dedicated team of master watchmakers, including one full year dedicated to assembly. A well-known and very passionate collector, Mr Berkely will no doubt be delighted with the outcome of his most ambitious commission yet.

Overseas Collection

Outside of the Berkley Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin introduced a number of updates across several collections, including new variations of the Overseas Chronograph, Overseas Dual Time, and Overseas Self-Winding, all elegantly crafted in pink gold with striking green dials. Boasting sunburst finishes that play beautifully with the light, these models exude a fresh, luxurious aesthetic, combining the warmth of pink gold with the vibrancy of green. The pink gold cases are complemented by matching bracelets, which can be easily swapped with the included green leather and rubber straps, allowing collectors to customize their look.

The Overseas Chronograph (42.5mm), powered by the Calibre 5200, offers a sporty yet refined appeal, boasting a 52-hour power reserve and precise chronograph functionality. The Overseas Dual Time (41mm), equipped with the Calibre 5110 DT/2, enables wearers to keep track of two time zones simultaneously, making it an ideal companion for the modern traveller. Lastly, the Overseas Self-Winding (41mm), featuring the Calibre 5100, provides an understated elegance with its minimalist design and reliable automatic movement. All models in this collection come with a transparent sapphire case back, offering a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship of the in-house movements. Water-resistant to 150 meters, these watches are as functional as they are beautiful, embodying the spirit of adventure and elegance that defines the Overseas Collection.

Patrimony Collection

For the Patrimony collection, the story this year is all about Vacheron Constantin’s new old-silver-toned dials, which were debuted on both the Patrimony Moon Phase and the Patrimony Self-Winding. The Patrimony Moon Phase stands out with its refined moon phase and date display, powered by the Calibre 2460 R31L/2. This movement ensures precision and reliability, with a moon phase accurate to within one day every 122 years. The watch’s minimalist design includes slender hour markers and dauphine hands, which complement the subtlety of the silver-toned dial. The 42.5mm case, available in 18k white gold, provides a classic yet contemporary look, appealing to collectors who value understated elegance.

Even more understated, the Patrimony Self-Winding, driven by the Calibre 2450 Q6/3, maintains the collection’s tradition of timeless design with a focus on functionality. The old-silver-toned dial, adorned with simple baton markers and a date window at 6 o’clock, exudes a sense of purity and balance. The automatic movement offers a 40-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire case back, showcasing Vacheron Constantin’s meticulous craftsmanship. Available again in 18k white gold, this 39mm model is versatile and sophisticated, making it a suitable choice for both formal and casual occasions. These new additions to the Patrimony Collection embody the Maison’s dedication to classical watchmaking, appealing to collectors who appreciate the fusion of tradition and innovation.

Égérie Collection

For its feminine Égérie collection, Vacheron Constantin has crafted something truly exquisite, in collaboration with famed designer Yiqing Yin: the limited edition Égérie Moon Phase. Presented in a 37mm round case crafted from 18K 5N pink gold, it captivates with its lilac mother-of-pearl dial with a pleated motif reminiscent of haute couture fabric. The moon phase display is surrounded by 36 round-cut diamonds, while the bezel is adorned with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds and the crown is set with a moonstone. The watch comes with three interchangeable straps: alligator, grained calfskin, and satin-effect calfskin, offering versatile elegance for various occasions.

If you can bring yourself to tear your eyes away from the dial and turn the watch over, you will be greeted by the sight of the in-house Calibre 1088 L, visible in all its glory through a sapphire caseback. In recognition of her contribution, Yiqing Yin’s name is engraved in full on the back, along with the number of this highly-exclusive 100-piece limited edition.

Available At Watches of Switzerland

As a long-time Brand partner of Vacheron Constantin here in Australia, Watches of Switzerland is pleased to be able to offer our esteemed clientele a selection of the most alluring pieces revealed so far. Available throughout the latter part of this year, please contact us to arrange private viewings.

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At the heart of professional cycling lies sheer determination and unwavering grit. Every pedal stroke pushes the limits of human endurance amidst the inherent risks of the sport. Tudor’s mission was clear: to engineer a timepiece that not only withstands the rigours of cycling but also enhances the rider’s experience. Inspired by the lightweight prowess of carbon fibre bikes, the Pelagos FXD Chrono features a robust carbon composite case fortified with titanium elements, ensuring unparalleled durability against the unpredictable terrains of cycling.

But durability alone isn’t sufficient; functionality is paramount. Typical chronographs cater to the speeds of automobiles, but the “Cycling Edition” breaks convention. Its innovative tachymeter scale, spiraling around the dial, is tailored to the sustained speeds of cyclists, enabling riders to effortlessly gauge their performance at a glance. With key features like a 43mm black matt-finished carbon composite case, a cycling-specific tachymeter scale, and luminescent ceramic composite hour markers, this timepiece is the epitome of performance and style.

The race-ready design extends to every detail. The matt black dial, adorned with striking red accents reminiscent of the TUDOR Pro Cycling Team colors, prioritizes legibility in any condition. The iconic “Snowflake” hands, a tribute to the Tudor heritage, boast Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material, ensuring optimal visibility during the toughest rides. Moreover, the innovative fabric strap, woven with precision on 19th-century Jacquard looms, offers unparalleled comfort and robustness, making it ideal for enduring long hours on the bike.

Powering this watch is the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, a testament to precision and reliability. Certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), it exceeds industry standards with a -2 to +4 seconds’ variation per day. Crafted with a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch, this high-performance movement is built to endure the most extreme conditions, a hallmark of Tudor’s commitment to excellence.

At Tudor, quality is a non-negotiable. Every watch undergoes rigorous testing at the state-of-the-art Tudor Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, ensuring unrivalled craftsmanship and precision. With a legacy spanning nearly a century, backed by the “Born To Dare” ethos, Tudor guarantees unparalleled performance and reliability, reflected in their five-year warranty.

The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is more than a timepiece; it’s a testament to the indomitable spirit of those who dare to push the boundaries of human achievement. With Tudor, embark on a journey of daring excellence. Discover this exciting new release at a Watches of Switzerland boutique near you.

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic and Dark Green Ceramic

This year a new ceramic colour is making its appearance at the heart of the Big Bang Unico: a vibrant orange, the result of a unique alchemy and a peerless resistance to shocks and scratches. A pioneer in the material, Hublot marked a world first in watches in 2019 when it debuted the first brightly coloured ceramic: a vibrant red. This was followed two years later by a stunning yellow piece. Not one to rest on their laurels, the brand continues to research and develop new colours, as attested to by this latest creation. For those looking for something a touch more understated, Hublot has also debuted a new version of the Big Bang Unico in dark green ceramic. Both cases show a polished finish and are paired with structured and lined rubber straps colour matched to the cases. Each is produced in a limited edition of 250 pieces.

From a technical standpoint, these models feature all the same characteristics of the Hublot Big Bang Unico collection. That means a 42mm case rated water resistant to 100m, complete with an open-worked dial with central time display powered by the in-house, Hub1280 Unico Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel. Visible through the sapphire glass on the case back, it’s finished in black for a striking contrast with the vibrant orange case or as a stealthy complement to the dark green ceramic.
 

Hublot Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire

Also joining the Hublot Big Bang Unico collection this year is the gorgeous Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire. As the name suggests, the entire 42mm case is hewn from polished pink sapphire crystal, another exotic material Hublot has routinely demonstrated its mastery of. Matching pink highlights adorn the open-worked dial, with a pink transparent structured lined rubber strap completing the look. Achingly beautiful in the flesh, this is one that needs to be seen to be fully appreciated. But with production limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, don’t expect to see too many in the wild.
 

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only Blue Ceramic And Black Magic 38mm

Hublot has made several news additions to its Big Bang Integrated Time Only range this year and two of our standout favourites have to be the Blue Ceramic and the Black Magic. Both are offered in 38mm cases crafted entirely from satin-finished and polished ceramic – in your choice of either blue or black – and are worn on integrated bracelets crafted from the same material and held securely in place by a titanium deployant buckle clasp. The smaller case sizes and light weight nature of ceramic make these models suited to a variety of wrists and occasions, and the dials – in satin-finished blue sunray or polished black – are at once elegant and attractive, but also practical and legible. Providing the power is the HUB1115 self-winding movement, which offers approximately 48 hours of power reserve.
 

Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire

Hublot has been collaborating with Maxime Plescia-Büchi, the celebrated typographer, tattooist, artist, and founder of the multi-faceted creative agency Sang Bleu for eight years now, to truly astonishing effect. The latest progeny to emerge from this creative partnership is the exceptionally sculptural Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire, marking the first time there has been a Sang Bleu model in sapphire. Yes, at its core it remains a Spirit of Big Bang with its 42mm diameter and the soul of the barrel shape, but beyond that it’s not like any you have seen before. The watch has been incised, chiselled, angled and faceted by Sang Bleu, revealing and overlaying hexagons, rhombuses and triangles redrawing forms and volumes, feature by feature. The playful relief and depth in Maxime’s features takes on a new dimension, as the sapphire reveals an entirely new personality.

The complexity of the design, plus the demanding geometry of Maxim Plescia-Buchi’s polygonal tattooing, meant that Hublot once again had to push back the boundaries of machining sapphire. Under the impact of the sapphire’s transparency, the purity of the Sang Bleu features, which remain sharp and methodical, expresses itself here in an ultra-light minimalist style, both visually and on the wrist. Incredibly, thanks to 3D machining and over 100 hours of work, the Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Sang Bleu is practically as hard and scratch-resistant as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 for diamonds). The only remaining non-transparent elements are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp, all cut out of titanium, and the components of the HUB4700, a skeletonised automatic chronograph movement equipped with a silicon regulating element. Limited to 100 pieces, the Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire is sure to appeal to Hublot collectors.

Available At Watches of Switzerland

As a long-time Brand partner of Hublot here in Australia, Watches of Switzerland is pleased to be able to offer our esteemed clientele a selection of the most alluring pieces revealed so far. Available throughout the latter part of this year, please contact us to arrange private viewings.

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The Year Of The Portugieser

As you may know already, IWC adopts somewhat of a different product launch strategy from many of its peers in the watchmaking world. Instead of debuting one or two new models across a range of collections, IWC largely focuses its attention on a single collection, introducing new models and reimagining and reengineering existing ones. In 2024, that collection is none other than the Portugieser.

Created in 1939 to fill a special order from two Portuguese importers for large wristwatches with high-precision pocket watch calibres, the Portugieser has evolved over the years into IWC’s best-selling collection. Yet every piece in the modern collection retains its connection to the original Ref 325 from all those years ago, thanks to that model’s distinctive aesthetic, informed in part by the popular Bauhaus modern art movement of the early 20th-century.

This school of design called for little ornamentation and a focus on balanced forms and abstract shapes. For IWC, this meant Arabic numerals for the hour markers, slim feuille hands and a “railroad track” chapter ring. Characteristics that are still found today on contemporary IWC Portugieser models. Over the years this dial layout, which promotes legibility without comprising on style, has been carefully evolved. Resulting in the modern Portugieser that is now known and loved the world over.

What’s New For 2024?

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The big announcement from IWC this year is of course the truly captivating IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar. Presented in a 44.4mm platinum case – that alone should tell you this piece is something special – this is IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar. So, what does that mean exactly? Well, to answer that question, you first need to understand one of the key rules of the Gregorian calendar, which is the civil calendar in use today. It states that years evenly divisible by 4 are leap years, except for centurial years that are not evenly divisible by 400. So, in simple terms that means the years 1700, 1800, 1900, 2100, 2200 and 2300 are not leap years and thus your traditional perpetual calendar will require a manual adjustment in those years.

IWC’s Eternal Calendar meanwhile is mechanically programmed to consider these exceptions. This is made possible by a newly engineered 400-year gear, which completes just one revolution every four centuries, thus compelling the calendar to skip three leap years (2100, 2200, and 2300) over 400 years. As such, this groundbreaking mechanism promises accurate leap year calculations until at least the year 3999. (No official decision has been made yet as to whether the year 4000 will be a leap year.)

In many ways, this exceptional achievement has been decades in the making, all the way back to 1985, when IWC introduced the legendary perpetual calendar module developed by Kurt Klaus, marking the genesis of the brand’s mastery in mechanical calendars. Perhaps most impressively of all though is the fact that this secular perpetual calendar inherits the synchronized design of its predecessor, allowing all its displays to be adjusted via a single crown.

And let’s not forget about the hyper-precise moon phase we alluded to in the introduction, which has been meticulously developed by IWC’s engineers for unrivalled precision. After exhaustive calculations of over 22 trillion possible combinations, a reduction gear train with three intermediate wheels was devised. As a result, the Double MoonTM indication, featuring a titanium base disc and a rotating glass disc with two blue dots simultaneously showing the phases of the moon in both the northern and southern hemisphere, boasts a theoretical adjustment interval of 45 million years. Yes, you read that correctly. If the movement is kept running continuously, this moon phase display will theoretically only deviate from the Moon’s orbit by one day in 45 million years.

Somehow, IWC’s engineers have found a way to fit all this mechanical ingenuity into a round case that is barely 15mm thick and protected on both sides by double-domed sapphire crystals. The dial itself is also made of glass with a frosted and lacquered white underside. Following the domed contours of the box-glass crystal, the white lacquered minutes flange with its signature Portugieser railway track is also raised. The layout of the calendar functions on the dial remains true to those of Kurt Klaus’ original Perpetual Calendar design, with the calendar sub-dials also crafted in sapphire crystal, giving the impression they are floating above the glassy dial and creating an incredible sense of dimensionality. Completing the package is a black alligator leather strap from Italian shoemaker Santoni, with a platinum folding clasp.

At work inside the polished, brushed and elaborately finished platinum case is the IWC-manufactured 52640 caliber. The automatic Pellaton winding system uses revolutions of the rotor in both directions to build up a power reserve of 7 days (168 hours) in the two barrels.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44

Following hot on the heels of the Eternal Calendar comes a complete update of IWC’s iconic Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. After debuting in 2003, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has become a major pillar of the collection, making it one of the most sought-after models in the range. And with the new releases this year, IWC turns up the desirability factor even higher.
Presented in a fully reworked 44.4mm case, the new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is available in your choice of 18ct white gold or 18ct Armor Gold® (a variant of 5N gold that is significantly harder and more wear-resistant thanks to its sophisticated production process, during which the microstructure of the alloy is transformed). The case now features a slimmer middle band and a sleeker profile yet maintains a height of 14.9mm courtesy of the addition of double box-glass sapphire crystals (front and back) with antireflective coating on both sides.

As with the Eternal Calendar above, this serves not only to open-up the dial and create a further sense of depth but also results in a reduction in the overall weight of the piece without sacrificing its balanced proportions. And speaking of dials, the new ones on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar are nothing short of spectacular. No less than fifteen layers of transparent lacquer are applied, before being fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The well-known sub-dials responsible for displaying the calendar information are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. Finally, the appliques are individually mounted on the dials by hand. All of which comes together to give each of the coloured dials an incredible richness and sense of depth. Comprising up to 60 individual steps, the production process for the dials is incredibly complex and challenging to master.

Beneath the dial is the IWC 52616 calibre movement, comprising 385 individual parts. Incorporating IWC’s automatic Pellaton winding system, the components of which are made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, it reliably builds up a power reserve of 7 days in two barrels via the solid gold oscillating mass. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields and it’s worth noting also that the water resistance of this reference has been increased to 50m (compared to 30m previously).

All versions feature IWC’s signature Double Moon display, which shows the moon as it can be seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Thanks to a precisely calculated reduction gear, the indication will only deviate from the moon’s actual orbit by one day after 577.5 years. Each is paired with a matching leather strap from Santoni.

IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC’s classic chronograph also receives special attention this year, with the addition of new models in 18 Carat gold and stainless steel. The 18-carat 5N gold version boasts a richly dark Obsidian dial replete with gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. It’s paired with a matching black alligator leather strap for the ultimate in elegant refinement. The stainless steel option meanwhile captures the hue of the late afternoon sun with its Dune coloured dial and gold-plated hands appliques. It too is worn on a stylish black alligator leather strap. Like the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, the dials feature fifteen layers of transparent lacquer that has then been polished to a high gloss finish.

The models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a robust mechanical chronograph movement in classic column-wheel design. The column-wheel control of the chronograph function ensures that individual phases in the switching sequence are clearly defined. There is also a distinct tactile resistance when the buttons are pushed. Expertly finished, the inner workings of the movement are visible through the sapphire display back.

IWC Portugieser Automatic

Also introduced at Watches & Wonders Geneva were new Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 models. Here again IWC has reworked the case construction, engineering a more slender side profile, making both case sizes visually lighter and more elegant. And in what is sure to be seen as a welcome move by collectors, both the Automatic 42 and Automatic 40 now feature double box-glass sapphire crystals, offering uninterrupted views of both the iconic dial lay-out as well as the IWC-manufactured movements inside.

Renowned for their balanced and highly legible display informed by Bauhaus principles, the dials of the Portugieser Automatic 42 & 40 are instantly recognisable. The larger version features twin sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock, displaying the running seconds and 7-day power reserve respectively, with the date shown via an aperture at 6 o’clock. The smaller version is an exercise in refinement, showing only the running seconds on a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock.

As with the other models in the new Portugieser line up, the dials are the result of an elaborate and highly complex process. The brass bases are either treated with a sunburst finish or given a finely blasted surface before the colour is applied. Then comes the aforementioned fifteen layers of lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The three-dimensional effect is further emphasised by the printing, which is carried out in a special procedure and adds to the sensation of depth. To finish, the appliques are individually hand mounted. A range of dial colours are available, including Obsidian black, Silver Moon and Blue, among others.

IWC Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon

Last but certainly not least comes the superbly understated Portugieser Hand Wound Toubillon, with a three-dimensional, globe-shaped day/night indicator visible from both the dial and movement side of the watch. Presented in a 42.4mm case hewn from polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold®, it is matched with the impossibly elegant Obsidian black dial that is a true standout of this new collection, complete with gold-plated hands, and gold appliques.

At six o’clock we find the flying minute tourbillon, one of the most sophisticated complications in watchmaking. Assembling and finetuning this delicate mechanism is a task reserved for the most experienced master watchmakers at IWC Schaffhausen. Completing a full rotation once every minute, the tourbillon houses the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage, thus reducing the influence of gravity on the oscillating system of the watch and thereby increasing its accuracy. Incredibly, despite comprising 56 individual parts, the mechanism only weighs 0.675 grams in total. This is possible, in part, thanks to the construction of the pallet lever and escape wheel from lightweight silicon, which is then treated with a special diamond coating. This Diamond Shell® technology reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the high power-reserve of 84 hours.

The other key drawcard is of course the 24-hour indicator in the shape of a small planet, which can be found at 9 o’clock. The globe has a dark and a bright side and rotates around its axis once every 24 hours, making it both intuitively easy to read but also visually quite captivating. The idea for this special day and night concept came from former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer and is a testament to the success of IWC’s trainee program and the culture of curiosity and innovation that the company fosters.

Behind the dial and visible through the sapphire glass display back is the newly developed IWC 81925 calibre. The gold-plated base plate of this hand-wound movement is partly skeletonised to offer views of the barrel and other components. As you would expect of a model of this pedigree, it is elaborately finished with circular Geneva stripes and is stunning to behold.

Available From Watches Of Switzerland

As a long-time Brand partner of IWC here in Australia, Watches of Switzerland is pleased to be able to offer our esteemed clientele a selection of the most alluring pieces revealed so far. Available throughout the latter part of this year, please contact us to arrange private viewings.

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We wouldn’t be the Experts in Time without our Expert brand partners.

Thank you to Breguet and our Melbourne clients for a great evening.

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